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**Lahore, Lahore eh!** THE CULTURAL HEART OF PAKISTAN– REVISITED: An anthology of memories and a soujourn into the past

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Noticias de Rupia | Nouvelles de Roupie | Rupiennachrichten | ??????? ????? | ???? | Roepienieuws | Rupi Nyheter | ??????? | Notizie di Rupia | PAKISTAN LEDGER???????? ????? | Akhbar Navees | ???? ??????? | Jan 16th, 2008 |

 An anthology of memories and a soujourn into the past by Moin-Ansari

Lahore is a great city that blossomed on the meandering Ravi river. Its people are magnanimous, its streets full of life, its bazaars are vivacious,  its shopping robust. It is a wonderful blend of the Potowar and the Jhelum, a confluence of various cultures of Pakistan. It is the heart of the “Punj-aab” (land of five rivers). From Gulberg to Bhatti gate, from Canal Road to Batapur, Lahore exudes a culture that is unique to the subcontinent.

It has survived the Mongol raids, lived through the invasions from the Macedonians and coped with attacks from the North. It prospered during the British era and has thrived after 1947. It has been the capital of many empires of South Asia. Perhaps not the oldest city in the subcontinent, but it is one of the oldest cities that is thriving today. The Ravi when it reaches the plains of the Punjab is neither a gushing river nor a muddy canal, rather it looks like an old tired river that has little water but very large banks.

THE CONVENT BRED BROWN SAHIBS ARE LOST IN THE BAZAARS OF LAHORE
Stiff collard Aithesonians mingle with the graduates of Kennaird College on Mall Road. Canal road is where the cruising goes on, and many a couples unite in love. The medical graduates of King Edward medical College brush sides with the graduates of FC college in the markets of Gulberg. The APWA begums mingle with the Cantonment snobs at Gogo or the current place for Ice Cream Cones. UET-Mughalpura spawns research and development in science and technology. One of the oldest shopping centers in South Asia is called Anar-Kali where you can find anything and everything of value. The narrow streets cater to all sorts of tastes. The over zealous shopkeepers will invite you for a “thandi botul” (cold drink) of “gurum chaah (hot tea) and then try to sell the behen-jee (sister) something. Intense haggling is the rule of the day, and the women are experts in cutting prices.

The bus stops near the colleges are favorite places for young Romeos to hang about, and they litrally hang on to the new busses still called “Omni Buses” when the Juliets get on the front section of the crammed buses.
For those who Lahoris who can still afford the several-million Ruppee-Gymkhana membership, life is a beach. Lahore, like most subcontinent cities is a pyramid society with small middle classes. The upper middle class Lahori lives a life more comfortable than the average European. The rich Lahori (with an army of servants, home registered dry-cleaning, fresh milk and vegatable delivered daily, bed-teas, morning cofee and parties everyday, marker-coached-squash-games, Dollar-a-point-nightly- bridge- sessions, swimming galas, and trips to Shangrila, Singapore and Europe), lives a life of abject luxury, perhaps found only in the old colonial era of a hundred years ago.

LAHORI COUSINE IS HOT AND SWEET: Food Street sells it all 
Lahoris eat their food spicy, the snacks (chaat, samosas, pakoras) chilli-hot, their summer drinks freezing-cold and their tea way past boiling..Blocks of ice stuffed with lemons adorn the “thailas” (man drawn
carts) will sell you fruits and vegetables. “Shikanjbeen”(Fresh lemonade), Lassi (a yogurt drink) and Peshawari “shakar kola” (sugar and secret spices mixed with water), “Gunnay-da-rus” (sugarcane juice) are some of the roadside drinks that will keep you cool in the 120 degree summers. “Karak chah” (Boiling tea, mixed with an overdose of sugar and milk and tea) will keep you warm in the below freezing winters.

The United Christian Hospital was but a shack in 1947. Today is sports a modern hospital complex in Gulberg. Lollywood has begun to churn out Pakistani movies made by the Pakistani middle-class. New educated starlet like Atiqa Odho have actully gotten the chic elite of Lahore to watch a Pakistani movie (they wouldn’t have been caught dead in a Pakistai movie theatre just a few years ago!)

A few miles from Lahore, across the toll-bridge over the Ravi is the industrial complex called Kala Shah Kaku. The chimneys of the chemical plants created by the Saigols are a sharp contrast to the minarets of the Badshahi Mosque of Lahore built by the Mughals. Data Gang Baksh is buried on the outskirts of walled city. This great Sufi saint was responsible for the mass conversations of Lahori Sikhs and Hindus to the message of Islam. Today it is revered like a saint.

The old walled city contains the notorious Heera Mundi, the red light district of the city, which had the ignominious distinction of being the largest red light area in the subcontinent. Like Delhi, the old city was a
walled city. There are several gates in Lahore, Bhatti, Mochi are only some of them. True Lahoris come from INSIDE the old walled city. A few years ago modern Lahoris wouldn’t be found dead in the old city. Now the bustling Food Street attracts young and old. The canal that runs through the city is a great place for an evening walk or a dip in the 120 degree heat in the middle of summer.

SPORTS IN LAHORE REFLECT ITS BRITISH PAST AND SOUTH ASIAN PROTO-HISTORY
The boat races on the Ravi may not be as famous as the Oxford-Cambridge ones in England but perhaps they conjure up more emotions in the city than the emotions found a football game between Texas and Okahoma.

Cricket is played Lahori style, not as a laid back English Gentlemans’s sport but rather like a soccer match complete with cheer-leaders and blow horns and tinker tapes.

Basant, on the banks of the Ravi is one the most greatest and perhaps one of the most fun filled events in the calendar of the city. Young and old rush to the Ravi for the annual Kite-flying competitions that have been held on the banks of Pakistans great river for thousands of years. The event last about two weeks and even goes on at night. All sorts of kites are flown and bets are raised on who will defeat who.Kabaddi is a special feature of the annual Horse and Cattle Show held in Lahore each year. Kabaadi is a game of strength and wit played throughout the Punjab and other areas of Pakistan

MODERN LAHORE IS FULL OF CONTRASTS
Todays Lahore stock market is competing with Karachi and other major cities of the subcontinent in seducing business and enterprise. A recent story by Reuters said that Lahore is indeed a mecca for Pakistani business. The city is a blend of modern Pakistan typified by the heel-clad fashion conscious liberated Punjabi female and the shutte-cock burqa adorning subservient Pakistan woman. It is a contrast between the shalwaar-kameez wearing Lahori youngster and the stiff necked Convent bred snob. Kashmir and Kashmiri  immigrants have had a definit influence on todays Lahori culture. East Punjabi and rural immagrants from outlaying villages have had a definite impact on the city as has the Mughal and British architecture.
Lahore has many Mughal buildings a testemony to it glorious Mogul past. The ruins of the mausoleum of Jehangir, the richest man on the planet in the sixteenth century are a reminder of how far the South Asian Subcontinent has deteriorated. Jehangi’rs Museum was looted and all the gold sent to Amritsar. Now it is a bare skeleton of the glorious building that was supposed to have rivalled the Taj Majal.

The Lahore Badshahi Mosque with one of the largest courtyards of any mosque anywhere overlooks the banks of the meandering Ravi. The Mosque was converted into a horses stable by Runjit SIngh and stipped of all ornaments. The Pakistan government has restored it and it was completed in the 60s. The Mosque is a solid building that has been maintained by the government and the zeal of the weekly Friday prayers. Like all Pakistani forts, the Lahore Fort is occupied by the Pakistan Army, and tourist can only guess what secrets the fort holds inside. The Shalimar Gardens, long a relic of the glorious sixteenth century Mughal era, were shined up in the seventies, and today is a regular place for government galas and official dignitary parties.

ORIGINS OF THE CITY
The origin of the cultural center of Pakistan is hard to assimilate and write about. Pakistani newspapers are full of Bosnia and Kashmir. Pakistani magazines talk about the latest Hollywood movies. Pakistani history books do not delve into these types of details, they are full of dozens of reasons for the Muslim triumph over Hindu armies. The history books do not teach us about our cities, and how they developed.

Ask any Lahori, and he will say **Lahore, Lahore eh!** A slogan, a bumper sticker and also a way of life ——–depicting a Non-chalant attitude towards the serious issues of life. **Lahore, Lahore eh!** represents the “zinda-dilan-e-Lahor” (lively folks of Lahore) and their zest for fun and fun loving things. Whether it is going to the latest snack bar in the middle of the night or stopping over at the lassi stand in mid afternoon, Lahoris will make sure that the words fun and food are involved in every activity.

There are many legends about the city of Lahore. Though, not as controversial as Jerusalem, the city is of supreme importance to the three major religions of South Asia. It is of special significance to the Hindus of the Subcontinent. The Sikhs still call is Lahore-Sharif, and Lahore is the capital of the mythical country of Khalistan trying to secede from India.
To the Muslims of Pakistan, Lahore represent a link to the Mughal and Sufi past. It is called “Data-Nagri”, land of Data Gang Baksh, the Sufi who spread Islam to this corner of the subcontinent. The Mughals adorned the city with the Badshahi mosque, Anar Kali, the shalimar Bagh, and many tombs and
buildings.

Most Pakistanis are of the opinion that the city was formed by the Mughals. Lahore never achieved either the cultural sophistication of Lucknow or Delhi, nor did it ever achieve the affluence of Calcutta or Bombay, however after partition it did serve as a magnet to the and the 1 million Kashmirs (Punjabi-Kashmiris and other Kashmiris) who had to leave the Indian state of Jammu and Kashmir. Lahore also became home to the five million East Punjabis, who were thrown out of Gurdaspur, Jaalandher, Amritsar and surrounding Muslim majority areas that were gifted by Sir Radcliffe to India. Many of these immigrant Punjabis are in the mainstream of Pakistani politics.

Shaheed-e-Millat Khan Liaqat Ali Khan was born in Karnal, East Punjab, Zia-ul-Haq was an East Punjabi from Jullander/Amritsar and Nawaz Sharif has Kashmiri roots.

Lahore, according to Hindu tradition, was founded by Lav or Loh, son of Ram of the Ramayana. The last Sikh Guru himself wrote that Lahore was founded by Lav, son of Ram Chandra. The tradition is also mentioned by Pakistan Government publications. {Kasur (Kush-pur) in Pakistan was founded by the other son of Lord Ram Chandra.}

Hindu traditionwould therefore put the date of the founding around 1500 BC, however this date is open to much interpretation. Fifteen forms of the name appear in history (not explicitly given in the encyclopedia) of which “Lohawar” or “fort of Loh” is one, says the encyclopedia.  Many Hindus claim that “the ending of Lahore “ore” is certainly the prakrit form of Sanskrit “Pur”, i.e. a city. It can not mean a fort”. Of the three names of the city, one is modern, one probably derives from ancient Vedic literature –the Ramayana (iin any case if there were 15 forms of the name, it bears some investigation) and one is anchored in Punjabi tradition.

The encyclopedia Britanica notes that the Greeks at the time of Alexander doesn’t mention Lahore (nor Jullunder), so they could not have been of much prominence at that time. It is entirely possible that these places were established only after the time of Alexander the Great.Hsuan Tsang did visit
Lahore.
This is what Stanley Wolpert says about Lahore and the early slave kings:

Sultan Mohammad of Ghaur and his slave lieutenant Qutub-ud-din Aibek led their first raid in to India in 1175, destroying the Ghaznavid garrison at Peshawar in 1179, capturing Lahore in 1186 and Delhi in 1193. In 1206 Muhammad of Ghaur was assassinated in Lahore following which Aibek proclaimed himself sultan of Delhi…….Iltimish…by diplomacy kept the armies of Ghengis Kahn at bay from invading Delhi. He assured all Hindus the status of dhimmis………………”

This is what Jawaharlal Nehru says about the Mongol invasions and Lahore:
 

 

“It was during the reign of Iltimush (from 1211 to 1236) that a great and terrifying cloud hovered over the frontiers of India. This was composed of the Mongols under Chengiz Khan. Right up to the Indus he came pursuing an enemy, but there he stopped. India escaped him. It was nearly 200 years later
that another of his breed, Timur, came down to India to massacre and destroy.
But although Chengiz did not come, many many Mongols made a practice of raiding India, and even coming right up to Lahore. They spread terror and frightened even the Sultans, who sometimes bribed them off. Many thousands
settled sown in the Punjab.”

The city gained great importance during the 87 year reign of Ranjit Singh who made Lahore the capital of his Sikh kingdom. At the tail end of the Sikh power Lahore lost its importance to the centers of political leadership migrated to Delhi, Agra, Lucknow and Calcutta.

All through the eighteenth century Lahore remained an important center of Sikh learning and it remained a magnet for Sikh renaissance. Gandhi went to Lahore several times. Pierre Collins in Freedom at Midnight
says the following:

” By the end of 1929, he was ready for another move forward. In Lahore, at the stroke of midnight, as the year ended, he led his Congress in a vow for “swaraj”, nothing less than independence.

Lahore and the surrounding areas remained shackled in the bondage of Feudalism. Before Pakistan the rightinst Unionist Party would not allow the Muslim League to make inroads into the Punjab. However by the end of the thirties, Lahore had spawned enough Muslim leadership to begin participating in the Muslim leadership of Northern India that had been fighting for independence since 1857. The Lahore Resolution , later renamed the Pakistan Resolution passed in 1940 asked for TWO INDEPENDENT Muslim states in the subcontinent on the basis of the Two Nation Theory.
The Lahore Resolution (later known as the Pakistan Resolution)
The Lahore resolution moved by Fazlul Haq at the 27th Session of the All
India Muslim League, at Lahore on March 23, 1940 stated:

 

“that geographically contagious units are demarcated into regions which should be so constituted, with such territorial adjustments as may be necessary, that theareas in which the Muslims are in a majority, as in the north-west and eastern zones of India, should be grouped to constitute
independent STATES IN WHICH THE CONSTITUENT UNITS SHALL BE AUTONOMOUS AND SOVEREIGN.”

THE TURMOIL OF 1947
The Lahore railway station still looks as British as the Bhawani Junction or the Delhi junction. The Lahore junction Railway station was a one whistle stop for fresh British grunts who were being shipped off to the North West Frontier Province of British India or being returned to Delhi after a tour of service in the small Cantonment barracks of Nowshera or Peshawar. The same railway station played a major part in the evolution of the new country of Pakistan when million of East Punjabis were sent across the border on specials called Pakistan Expresses. While the population exchanges were taking place (five million from East Punjab to West Punjab and about the same number from West Pakistani Punjab to East Indian Punjab) the city was bursting at its seems.

According to Pierre Collins of Freedom at Midnight (Page 200) “5 million of India’s 6 million Sikhs lived in the Punjab. They constituted 13% of its population, but owned 40% of its land and produced almost 2/3rds of its crops. Almost a third of the members of India’s armed forces were Sikhs, and close to half of the Indian army’s medal winners in two world wars had come from their ranks.

The tragedy of the Punjab was that while Moslems and Sikhs could not live under the British, neither could they live under the other. The Moslems’ memory of Sikh rule in the Punjab was one of “mosques defiled, women outraged, tombs razed, Moslems without regard to age or sex butchered, bayoneted, strangled, shot down, hacked to pieces, burnt alive” This is the situation on August 5, 1947 as narrated by Larry Collins and
Dominique Lapierre:

“A group of Sikh extremists, savage reported had linked hands with the most fanatical political group in India, the RSS. At their head stood Master Tara Singh, the third grade school-teacher who had called on his followers to drench India in blood at the Sikh’s secret convocation in Lahore. The two
groups had agreed to pool their resources and energies in a pair of terrorist actions.

The Sikhs with their better organization, training and knowledge of explosives, would destroy the heavily guarded “Pakistan Specials”, the trains destined to convoy from Delhi to Karachi the key men and stores assigned to
the new state. Tara Singh had already installed a wireless set and an operator to flash information on the trains departure and its route to the Sikh armed bands that were to attack them.


The responsibility for the action Savage said had been assigned to the RSS whose Hindu members unlike Sikhs could easily pass themselves as Moslems. The organization was in the process of infiltrating an unidentified number of
their most fanatic supporters into the city of Karachi. Each had a British Army Mills hand grenade. None of them were aware of each others existence, so the arrest of one would not compromise the plan.”
With the outflux of 400,000 Hindu/Sikh residents of Lahore to India, Lahore now had a political vacuum that was filled by the influx of millions of East Punjabi Muslims from Gurdaspur, Jullander, Amritsar and Kashmiri homeless
from Jammu and Kashmir. Lahore not only welcomed the East Punjabis and Punjabi speaking Kashmiris but also accorded them the honor of son, of the soil (a honor withheld from the other immigrants who went to Karachi and
other places in Pakistan).

 

LAHORE AFTER 1947
After independence, Lahore has achieved phenomenal growth both in terms of economic and political leadership of the Northern half of the country. In 1965 when Indian tanks were poised on the BRB canal (built by Liaqat Ali Khan) but never actually crossed Batapur. Liqat Ali Khan was born in Karnal, East Punjab, and his vision SAVED Pakistan in 1965. Who knew that Liaqat Ali Khans irrigation canal would hold the Indian army at bay for the first crucial 48 hours, and allow enough time to the Pakistan army to re-deploy and then repulse the surprise attack. Had it not been for these water barrier, perhaps the history of the 1965 war would have been different. If Lahore had fallen into Indian hands, this would have precipitated a catastrophe for Pakistan that she may not have recovered from.

In 1973 she was adorned as never before. Old fountains that had not worked in decades were fixed. Age old Graffiti was removed from almost every wall. Roads were re-paved, buildings were painted, round-abouts were prepped up, and the city was given a spit-shine that lasted for many years ——— the bill was footed by the Saudi Royal family. Lahore was hosting the Islamic Summit, a congragation of Muslim kings, sultans, princes, caliphs, prime ministers, presidents, potentates, and dictators from all over the Muslim world. This was the beginning of the Organization of Islamic Conference (OIC) formed by Shah Faisal of Saudi Arabia and Zulfiqar Ali Bhutto of Pakistan.
All through the seventies and the eighties, Lahore has played second fiddle to the cosmopolitan megalopolis Karachi. As Karachi industrialized and moved ahead, Lahore saw its importance over-shadowed by Karachi. However since the advent of the nineties, Lahore has come of its own, and today Lahore is in direct competition with Karachi for the business and entrepreneurial opportunities that the city offers to the investors.
Lahore will continue to grow as a center of commerce and industry. It is truly the cultural heart of Pakistan. As a gateway to India, it could become a major crossroad between the South Asia and the Oil rich Middle East.

Lahore, Lahore eh!

THE END

“Passage to Lahore is one of the bravest pieces of writing to emerge from our carefully confused Canada. Samuel travels from Lahore to Montreal (and many points in-between) with the ease of an accredited nomad. In the doing, he stakes out a place for smart, wicked characters equally fluent in international politics and intellectual gossip. This book is unafraid of anger, unafraid of ideas, unafraid of speaking the wrong thing.


Passage to Lahore marks Samuel as an important renegade voice within postcolonial fiction.”
– Cameron Bailey

ARTICLES ABOUT FATIMA AND BILAWAL BHUTTO
Fatima Bhutto the niece writes a farewell letter to Aunt Benazir Bhutto

Fatima Bhutto hints at political involvement. Sign up sheet for a Draft Fatima movement. Leave comments and contact info. Name, email and contact info

Fatima Bhutto and Bilawal Bhutto…a couple made in heaven

Two women. Benazirs murder and Princess Dianas Pakistan connection. Was the Quran the reason for her death?

The speech that Fahim, Zardari, and Bilawal Bhutto should have made. The message that the PPP should have sent. The patriotism that the People Party could have spread

The speech that Bilawal Bhutto should have given. The words that Zardari should have shouted. The thoughts that Fahim should have communicated

The CIA Connection…….The Benazir Bhutto Assassination was pre planned, the Zia model with a twist. The continued CIA involvement in Pakistan. The Great Game continues. When the Elephants dance the grass gets stamped upon…Pakistanis suffer. The purpose of this assignation is to destabilize Pakistan and find a reason to secure the Nukes

Criticism of Benazir Bhutto’s 5E Campaign program

Criticism of Benazir Bhutto. Pre-Assassination

Who killed Liaqat Ali Khan?
On deconstructing the wrong paradigm of the USA media
Rebutting Cohen
Pakistanis are immune to another prophecy of doom
Pakistanis want to hear “Thank You” from the ingrate Americans. Nothing is good enough!
Pakistanis to USA: We want “Friends Not Masters”
Say Thank You
Pakistan US Relations should be normal not transactional
Response to Congressman Hoyer on Pakistan”
On inadequate US Aid to Pakistan
Where is Osama Bin Laden
Where are the Pakistani nukes?

Where is Leadership of the PPP? Why is it behaving like Nero. Stop the arson and the carnage. Ask for a national Day of prayer and reconciliation

Open Letter to Mr. 10% Asif Zardari. Show some leadership

Open Letter to Mr. Bilawal Bhutto

The CIA connection—Benazir Bhutto assassination was pre-planned, the Zia model with a twist

Benzir Bhuttos revenge from the grave: Annointing a despised and corrupt politician Mr. 10% as her successor

Open letter to Mr. Zardari

The 4th Bhutto assassination is a message to the USA. Hands Off Pakistan

Here we go again! Another Indian prophecy of doom. The first one was in 1947

We would like to refer our readers to the an article on “Toppling the US military” that is worth its weight in gold. Search for it on this site. See: “Kissinger threatened Zulifiqar Ali Bhutto”

Also of interest may be an article on “Who assassinated Liaqat Ali Khan”?

Pakistani infrastructure needs> Build Pakistan up as a bulwark against American enemies”

About the inane discussion of taking out Pakistan’s Nuclear weapons.”

Taking out Pakistani Nuclear weapons.”

This was an angry reaction to Benazir Bhutto’s unpatriotic comments. According to tradition, we should not say bad things about a dead person. May God Bless her soul.”

Every time something bad happens, anti-Pakistan elements come out of the woodwork. Here is a response to the talking heads.”

the Democrats don’t get it.”

Discussion of taking out Pakistani nukes: The White House should immediately repudiate this aggression and arrest Anti-Americansim”

Discussion of taking out Pakistani nukes: The White House should immediately repudiate this aggression and arrest Anti-Americansim”

Wish List from Pakistan to Santa America”
Perpetual Mimetic warfare
The Worst Islamphobes
Where are the Pakistani nukes?

On Liaqat Ali Khan: Who killed him?
On deconstructing the wrong paradigm. Why the US Think Tank industry is wrong!
Rebutting Cohen. He is an Indian agent!
Another prophecy of doom for Pakistan. Blah Blah Blah!
Pakistanis want to hear “Thank You” for the US
Pakistanis to USA: We want “Friends Not Masters”
America: Say Thank You”
Pakistan US Relations should be normal not transactional”
Response to Congressman Hoyer on Pakistan”
On inadequate US Aid to Pakistan”

….Pakistanis are not stupid and have their nukes hidden”

The Democrats don’t get it

Where in the world is Osama Bin Laden

The speech that Bilawal Bhutto should have given. The words that Zardari should have shouted. The thoughts that Fahim should have communicated

The CIA Connection…….The Benzair Bhutto Assassination was pre planned, the Zia model with a twist. The continued CIA involvement in Pakistan. The Great Game continues. When the Elephants dance the grass gets stamped upon…Pakistanis suffer. The purpose of this assignation is to destabilize Pakistan and find a reason to secure the Nukes

Criticism of Benazir Bhutto’s 5E Campaign program

Criticism of Benazir Bhutto. Pre-Assassination

Who killed Liaqat Ali Khan?
On deconstructing the wrong paradigm of the USA media
Rebutting Cohen
Pakistanis are immune to another prophecy of doom
Pakistanis want to hear “Thank You” from the ingrate Americans. Nothing is good enough!
Pakistanis to USA: We want “Friends Not Masters”
Say Thank You
Pakistan US Relations should be normal not transactional
Response to Congressman Hoyer on Pakistan”
On inadequate US Aid to Pakistan
Where is Osama Bin Laden
Where are the Pakistani nukes?

Where is Leadership of the PPP? Why is it behaving like Nero. Stop the arson and the carnage. Ask for a national Day of prayer and reconciliation

Open Letter to Mr. 10% Asif Zardari. Show some leadership

Open Letter to Mr. Bilawal Bhutto

The CIA connection—Benazir Bhutto assassination was pre-planned, the Zia model with a twist

Benzir Bhuttos revenge from the grave: Annointing a despised and corrupt politician Mr. 10% as her successor

Open letter to Mr. Zardari

The 4th Bhutto assassination is a message to the USA. Hands Off Pakistan

Here we go again! Another Indian prophecy of doom. The first one was in 1947

We would like to refer our readers to the an article on “Toppling the US military” that is worth its weight in gold. Search for it on this site. See: “Kissinger threatened Zulifiqar Ali Bhutto”

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